Anyone find they need to raise the action on their new Taylor?

[ewalling]

I recently bought a GC3 and I'm delighted with it. However, the action seems to have been set so finely that if I really dig in, I get a little 'snap' or buzz. Detuning to DADGAD also means that capoing at the 2nd fret causes some buzz on the bass E string. In some ways, I'm loathe to mess about with this guitar as for most of my playing it's perfect, with a playability I don't think I've ever experienced with an acoustic guitar. But when I do detune, I begin to wonder of I shouldn't have the guitar tweaked slightly by a pro. Anyone else experienced this with a brand new Taylor?

[Scriptor]

Unless you really know what you are doing, I recommend you take it to an authorized shop and let the luthier get familiar with your playing style.  He should be able to tweak the setup to fit more with your playing. 

I had a GC8 a few years ago that the action was just a little high for my playing (I have a very light touch and like the action to be as low as possible w/o string buzz).  Once mine was setup to my way of playing, it was just right.

With the GC's the short scale makes the strings looser.  So depending on the playing style, string buzz tends to be more of a possibility.  Paricularly if you use alternate tunings which loosen the strings even more.

Hope that helps.  Enjoy.  GC's are very good guitars.

[ewalling]

Thanks for your perspective. Yes, I won't do any tinkering myself. What I might do (I did this once before with another guitar) is upgrade the saddle to bone or FWI and ask the tech, when installing it, to leave a fraction more saddle showing than there is now. The only issue with that is that the guitar sounds really good as it is, and a "better" saddle may not result in better tone. Another possibility would simply be to use another guitar for altered tunings. As I say, in standard tuning I only get that 'snap' if I really dig in with my thumb, and it may be better to take advantage of the ease of playing this guitar affords at the 5th fret and beyond.

[Ted @ LA Guitar Sales]

Timcito, before diving in to a full setup try loosening the truss rod by a 1/4 turn to add a little relief, it will make a huge difference.

[ewalling]

Thanks for the advice, Ted. Yes, I could try that - it would certainly be easier (and cheaper!) than a set up and/or saddle replacement.

[mgap]

Timcito, before diving in to a full setup try loosening the truss rod by a 1/4 turn to add a little relief, it will make a huge difference.

That will make a difference.  I have a problem with all my guitars in that when I drop the low E to D and capo at the 3rd fret it buzzes badly.  To fix the problem I put on medium strings and gave the neck truss rod about 1/4 turn and that did the trick.  No more buzzing and I can if I want really lay into the string with no buzz.  Now I did this on a 716 and that one should have medium strings to start with, so I don't know if that will work with a GC or GA.

[Edward]

Taylors come very consistently "setup," which of course accounts for why so many folks like them right off the store wall.  That said, one can never account for the myriad personal preferences when it comes down to what action works for you and your playiing style.

So when de-tuning, either in alternate tuning or simply going to Eb, assuming the neck angle/saddle height are correct (a good assumption with Taylors), simply adjusting the amount of neck relief does a lot to accomodate for aforementioned detuning since it alllows your strings (now looser) to swing in a larger arc without fret buzzing against frets.  Likewise is true for aggressive strummers: more relief allows the strings to move.  Conversely, fingerstylists or those with a very light touch can get away with little or nearly no relief.  I would go in 1/8-turn increments and see what ends up working for you.

Edward

[ewalling]

Timcito, before diving in to a full setup try loosening the truss rod by a 1/4 turn to add a little relief, it will make a huge difference.

That will make a difference.  I have a problem with all my guitars in that when I drop the low E to D and capo at the 3rd fret it buzzes badly.  To fix the problem I put on medium strings and gave the neck truss rod about 1/4 turn and that did the trick.  No more buzzing and I can if I want really lay into the string with no buzz.  Now I did this on a 716 and that one should have medium strings to start with, so I don't know if that will work with a GC or GA.

Once I get the truss rod tool, I'll give the rod a tweak, as suggested. While I would not put medium strings on this guitar, I might try it out with Martin SP Lights, which are a tad tighter than some other brands, having a 25 for the 3rd and a 54 for the 6th instead of a 24 and a 53, respectively.

[ewalling]

Taylors come very consistently "setup," which of course accounts for why so many folks like them right off the store wall.  That said, one can never account for the myriad personal preferences when it comes down to what action works for you and your playiing style.

So when de-tuning, either in alternate tuning or simply going to Eb, assuming the neck angle/saddle height are correct (a good assumption with Taylors), simply adjusting the amount of neck relief does a lot to accomodate for aforementioned detuning since it alllows your strings (now looser) to swing in a larger arc without fret buzzing against frets.  Likewise is true for aggressive strummers: more relief allows the strings to move.  Conversely, fingerstylists or those with a very light touch can get away with little or nearly no relief.  I would go in 1/8-turn increments and see what ends up working for you.

Edward

Well, I'm a fingerstylist, but I don't always play with a light touch. Maybe I'm more of an agricultural fingerpicker at heart!   

[Edward]

Timcito, before diving in to a full setup try loosening the truss rod by a 1/4 turn to add a little relief, it will make a huge difference.

That will make a difference.  I have a problem with all my guitars in that when I drop the low E to D and capo at the 3rd fret it buzzes badly.  To fix the problem I put on medium strings and gave the neck truss rod about 1/4 turn and that did the trick.  No more buzzing and I can if I want really lay into the string with no buzz.  Now I did this on a 716 and that one should have medium strings to start with, so I don't know if that will work with a GC or GA.

Once I get the truss rod tool, I'll give the rod a tweak, as suggested. While I would not put medium strings on this guitar, I might try it out with Martin SP Lights, which are a tad tighter than some other brands, having a 25 for the 3rd and a 54 for the 6th instead of a 24 and a 53, respectively.

When experimenting with different string brands and gauges, this is the perfect time to adjust the truss rod as each set exerts slightly different tension against the neck ...so your timing is perfect here.  BTW, no need to wait for a "proper" tool ...all you need a 1/4" wrench; a 12-point box-end wrench gives you perfect access and feel for a slight tweak in either direction. 

Edward

[sthompson]

I feel compelled to ask....

What is the state of humidification on this guitar?
Does it show symptoms of a dry guitar?  If so, adding neck relief
won't really fix that problem.  You'll need to restore the moisture
to the entire guitar.

It's possible your guitar took a "dry" route to arrive in your hands.
st

[roadbiker]

When I bought my 814ce in November 2011, it came with a free set-up. After having played it for 7 months now, I think I'm about ready to bring it in for the setup. I will probably ask them to slightly raise the action. I'm also considering geting them to change the nut because I think the high E-string is too close to the edge of the fret. That was the subject of a discussion I started a couple of months ago and it seems like there is some agreement.

Jim

[ewalling]

When I bought my 814ce in November 2011, it came with a free set-up. After having played it for 7 months now, I think I'm about ready to bring it in for the setup. I will probably ask them to slightly raise the action. I'm also considering geting them to change the nut because I think the high E-string is too close to the edge of the fret. That was the subject of a discussion I started a couple of months ago and it seems like there is some agreement.

Jim

I think you could be onto something here. One other Taylor I had, a GC8, had the issue of a slightly buzzy bass E string, particularly when detuned. I took the guitar in to my tech and he commented that the neck relief was fine, as was string height at the 12th fret. One avenue we did not explore, however, was nut height, or rather lowness of the slots. Taylors have the best, most playable actions for standard tuning of any brand I've had straight out of the box, but maybe the trade-off is a little less flexibility for detuning.

[Ted @ LA Guitar Sales]

Timcito, before diving in to a full setup try loosening the truss rod by a 1/4 turn to add a little relief, it will make a huge difference.

That will make a difference.  I have a problem with all my guitars in that when I drop the low E to D and capo at the 3rd fret it buzzes badly.  To fix the problem I put on medium strings and gave the neck truss rod about 1/4 turn and that did the trick.  No more buzzing and I can if I want really lay into the string with no buzz.  Now I did this on a 716 and that one should have medium strings to start with, so I don't know if that will work with a GC or GA.

Once I get the truss rod tool, I'll give the rod a tweak, as suggested. While I would not put medium strings on this guitar, I might try it out with Martin SP Lights, which are a tad tighter than some other brands, having a 25 for the 3rd and a 54 for the 6th instead of a 24 and a 53, respectively.

You don't need a truss rod tool Timcito, all you need a screwdriver with a standard 1/4" hex slot, (the ones that can accept different bits) and you are all set. I actually find them easier and safer to use than the old Taylor truss rod tools.

[ewalling]

You don't need a truss rod tool Timcito, all you need a screwdriver with a standard 1/4" hex slot, (the ones that can accept different bits) and you are all set. I actually find them easier and safer to use than the old Taylor truss rod tools.

Thanks, Ted. I did actually go out on Saturday to try and get a 1/4" nut driver from my nearest Sears. Just my luck that they'd sold out! I may have to drive farther now and navigate my way round the enormous Home Depot!