GS mini String height

[The Doctor]

So I'm wondering if the stings on my GS mini are too high and if I need to have the truss rod adjusted.  I found this by searching the forum but wasn't sure these values correspond to the GS mini

Could anyone help?

You should measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string.  Here are some numbers I hope are correct For the low E-string:

12th fret = 6/64 or .09375 inches  or 2.38mm

1st fret = 2/64 or .0312 inches or .79375mm  (use feeler gauge)

For high E string

12th fret 4/64 or .0625 inches or 1.56mm

1st fret = 1/64 or .0156 inches or .4125mm

[GSMC Bob]

Truss rod adjustments are not for changing the height of the strings but for adjusting the relief of the neck.  However, tweaking the truss rod will impact string height, so neck relief needs to be set before adjusting the height of the strings at the 12th fret.  Taylor's factory settings are 6/64" and 4/64" for E and e at the 12th fret.  I would call that medium-low action good for most  people.  A fingerstylist may want a touch lower and a hard driving strummer or flatpicker may want a touch higher, but this is a good starting place for most folks.

Many folks prefer neck relief around .005" to .010", again depending on your technique.  The harder you play, the more room you need for the string to oscillate without buzzing against the frets.  Good info can be found here:  http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/truss-rod.php

The string height at the nut is usually measured br fretting at the third fret and measuring the gap between the fret and the string at the first fret.  Having a barely visible gap is usually about right for most people... just enough so that when you are fretting at the third fret you can push down over the first fret and just hear that slight "clink" of the string coming in contact with the fret.  Most Taylor nuts I've seen have been set pretty perfectly at the factory.

Do your strings seem too high suddenly?  A string gauge change or a change in humidity can require a truss rod adjustment.  A change in humidity can also make the top rise or sink slightly which affects the string height.  Consistent relative humidity in the 40's and 50's percent range where your guitar is stored is your friend!

I think the goal of a guitar setup is to find the lowest string height, nut height and flattest neck relief that you can play with your preferred string gauge without buzzing.  That varies with everyone's own personal technique but, as I said, Taylor's factory setup is usually a great starting place for most folks until they have developed strong preferences in their specs for setup.

[michaelw]

those values are correct for Taylor steel 6 string guitars, but there are a wide array of variables -
the GS mini is roughly a 7/8 size GS 14 fret with 23.5" scale & came from the factory with mediums .013 - .056

the specs apply to these models as well -
the  baby, a 3/4 size DN 14 fret with 22 3/4" scale & lights & the big baby, a 15/16 with 25.5" scale & lights .012 - .053
GC/X12s, either 14 or 12 fret, 24 7/8" scale for nearly the past 10 years or 25.5", with lights
GA/X14s, again either 14 or 12 fret, 25.5" scale length for 14 fret or 24 7/8", with lights
DN/X10, JM/X15, GS/X16, & GO/X18 models, 14 fret, 25.5" scale with mediums, with some short 24 7/8" scale X10LTDs in 04

the standard specs for all of these 6 string models is 6/64" E & 4/64" e, but there are variances in the factory setup,
as new guitars i've seen over 10 years ago & more current models with bone nut & saddle have been a hair lower

rather than focusing so much on the specs & trying to reduce the neck relief, may i make a suggestion that you try
a small adjustment by turning the truss rod nut a 1/16th of a turn, retune if needed, let it settle in & then play it -
if there is no buzzing & the action still seems a bit high, repeat the process & when it gets to the point where there
is zero relief in the neck or fret buzz before it reaches zero, add a bit of relief back to the neck, see how the action is &
at point if you feel it needs to be a bit lower, try sanding the bottom of the saddle just a little bit, ideally a replacement
saddle so if for some reason the height is taken down too low, you can shim the replacement saddle to determine the
correct height, & then use that saddle & shim to duplicate the height on the original saddle, but if more than a 1/32" needs
to be taken off, refrain from sanding the original saddle, as chances are either the nut or neck shims need to be addressed

by determining the correct neck relief for your personal perference & verifying that there is not excessive relief in the
neck, which can cause the action to be raised higher than a neck with minimal relief, then other factors can be looked at -
i've personally adjusted the neck relief on a new D42 that was so excessive that by the time the relief was with within reason, the
action had lowered to point to where the guitar was extremely easy to fret with mediums &, dare i say it, easier than some of the
Taylors i'd played & owned at that time, so sometimes it pays to look at the easier, reversible adjustments first & go from there

[Paul60]

Hey Doc,

Have a look at some of my recent posts.

I have a similar problem with my GS Mini although it seems to be within Taylors string height recommendations.

I was going to get mine setup properly by a tech but I've decided to do it myself.

The action still looks way high to my eyes even though it measures a tad over 3/32nds at the 12th fret. My relief seems to be around .005 and I plan to take that down to .004 or as low as I can get it. Dead flat neck with no buzz. Then I may take a little off the saddle if its still too high.

If you are like me, and have come from a electric background then we may just need to get used to higher action and that stiffness.

It's getting more comfortable the more I play though.

I'm also noticing some frets/notes sound choked with almost zero sustain. Again I reckon that may be helped with with a truss rod adjustment.

The frets all seem well finished and level with no high spots. Maybe the nut could be looked at too.

I'm going to look at all these issues & if its still not right I'll have to take it to the local tech.

Good luck with yours,

Paul:)

[GSMC Bob]

If you're used to .009-.047 or similar gauge, I am sure any acoustic will feel stiff.  I have trouble playing GS Minis because of their very short scale length (23 & 1/2") and narrow (for an acoustic) 1 & 11/16" nut.  My fingers get crammed together and that makes them difficult to play cleanly.... for me.  All of my Taylors have a 1 & 3/4" nut width and two are 24 & 7/8" scale and one is 25 & 1/2" scale.   I do think the GS Minis sound absolutely great for a travel-size guitar, however!  I think they are great guitars for people with smaller hands!!  I am thinking of getting my 10 year old nephew one.

I can't help but notice the OP didn't mention any difficulty playing his guitar....