« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2016, 09:05:02 PM »
Those Ebony bridge pins look nice, "g.man!"
Can't answer your first question, but I don't think there are shims under the saddle (which is what I think you meant). The following actions are best taken by your dealer or a luthier, but if you insist on doing it yourself you can theoretically lay a piece of low-grit sandpaper flat on the table and lightly sand down the base of the saddle to lower the action -- but you need to be careful to sand evenly and not to take off too much.
Something you might try before sanding the saddle is to check the relief on the neck, and if necessary, make a truss rod adjustment. To make the adjustment yourself, you will need a truss rod wrench; or a small screwdriver (to remove the truss rod cover) and a 1/4-inch nut driver (preferably with a 6-inch shaft). Sight down the fretboard using the edge of it for reference; if the neck has too much relief (bowed such that the middle of the fretboard looks like it has a "dip" in it), the action will be higher than it should be. The plastic cover on the front of the peg board hides the truss rod nut. Again, small changes go a long way; as the guitar lays on its back, turn the truss rod clockwise to take out relief. You can search the interweb for an illustrated Taylor technical guide on the topic of truss rod adjustments.
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DN: 360e, 510ce, 510e-FLTD, 810ce-LTD (Braz RW), PS10ce
GA: 414ce, 614ce-LTD, 714ce-FLTD, BR-V, BTO (Makore, 'Wild Grain' RW, Blkwood), GAce-FLTD, K24ce, PS14ce (Coco, Braz RW, "Milagro"), W14ce-LTD
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GO: 718e-FLTD, BTO (Taz Myrtle)
GS: Custom 516e, BTO 12's (Taz Tiger Myrtle, 'Crazy' RW), 556ce, 656ce, K66ce, PS56ce ("Milagro")
GS Mini 2012 Spring LTD (Blackwood)
T3/B: Custom (Cu & Au Sparkle)
T5: C1, C5-12, S (Aztec Gold)